Crown shyness

Did you know that trees need personal space, too?

Photo by Mahim Bhat

Photo by Mahim Bhat

Crown shyness is a naturally occurring phenomenon observed in forests where the crowns of trees avoid touching each other, creating a stunning visual effect akin to a network of cracks in the canopy. It’s been observed in species of European oak and pine, but is most prevalent in tropical and subtropical rainforests.

Scientists are yet to reach a consensus on why it happens, but the most popular theory is that it’s a preventative measure against shading; to optimize the tree’s exposure to light and maximise photosynthesis.

This article originally appeared in issue 9 of Ernest Journal, on sale now.

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Shooting the Faroe Islands

For issue 9 of Ernest Journal, Canadian photographer Graeme Owsianski travelled to the Faroes – a huddle of 18 islands rising from the North Atlantic, halfway between Norway and Iceland. There he photographed fell runners, foragers, conservationists and guano-covered, storm-battered cliffs

All images by Graeme Owsianski

All images by Graeme Owsianski

Graeme, what are your outstanding memories of the Faroe Islands?

I would say the people and their sense of community. This tiny group of islands in the middle of the North Atlantic is a truly harsh environment, yet the close-knit communities endure it all.

My favourite part of the trip was foraging for ingredients and cooking a meal with Gutti Winther. The weather was against us from the start but it didn’t hold us back for a second. It was a day full of sharing stories, and it ended with one of the most memorable meals I’ve ever had. We also went out on a fishing boat, which was a big highlight. The Faroese are so connected to the sea, so I felt it was crucial to view the islands from out on the water and experience this connection.


What were the islands like to photograph, in comparison to other landscapes you’ve shot?

Trying to capture the scale and do it justice was very challenging. There’s not much to reference scale because the surroundings are just so grand – it was definitely tricky to capture just how small you felt among those towering cliffs. Many times I found myself standing on the edge of a 400-metre drop, which is something I hadn’t experienced before.


What's the most challenging landscape you've photographed?

The Galapagos Islands, which I shot for issue 6 of Ernest. Given that it has such a unique and fragile ecosystem, access can be quite limited. I kept wanting to get higher, to get a vantage point to overlook some of the island and sea but wasn’t able to get where I wanted to, unfortunately. That said, a majority of the beauty of the Galapagos is under water so if we direct the term landscape to what’s below the surface it was an absolute joy to explore and photograph. Not without its challenges though, there were quite a number of curious seals and sea lions that wanted to get up close and personal with my camera.


Where do you turn for inspiration?

Everywhere, to be honest! I find inspiration in all places: art, books, nature, movies, story telling, etc. I think if you hit a rut and feel uninspired, then you need to refocus and look somewhere completely new. Often just reading and letting your imagination conjure up ideas and images can spark new inspiration.

But if I had to pick one thing, it would have to be nature. The more you look, you realise everything is connected.


What's in store for you in 2020?

To finish my house that I’m currently building!

As far as photography trips go – my friend has invited to his newly opened eco lodge called Firvale Wilderness Camp, which is in the Great Bear Rainforest. I’m pretty stoked for that – it’s an incredible area in British Columbia and should have some great fishing and wildlife in store. Also, maybe a trip to Nepal? We’ll see.


Tell us about your kit.

My photo kit doesn’t change a whole lot – I shoot on a Canon 5d mark 1V. I’ve got a pretty wide range of lenses: 16-35, 24-70, 70-200, 100-400, and a 24, 50, 100 macro. There’s different tools for different jobs but if I had to limit myself to just one, I’d roll with a 50mm 1.2 prime. I love this lens for everything, from details to portraits and landscape.

I use a Gitzo carbon tripod. I’m not a huge tripod fan – I find it slows me down, but of course they have their uses. I also have Aquatech Imaging water housing – this opens up even more opportunities to photograph different things you otherwise couldn’t.

I don’t really follow gear and ‘the next best thing’ in camera tech. I use what I’ve got until it wears out. My advice on gear is: the best camera is the one you have with you.

What’s the best piece of advice you've ever been given, in regards to photography?

Shoot as much as you can and don’t be afraid to fail. Photography is something you can always continue to learn and grow at – every situation offers its unique challenges and that’s half the fun. But the light is always changing and the creative possibilities are endless.

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Graeme grew up on Vancouver Island and calls Ucluelet on the west coast home. An outdoor lifestyle photographer, he also enjoys hiking, surfing, canoeing and fishing in his ‘backyard’. Follow his work on Instagram @graeme_o

You can see the full feature on the Faroe Islands in issue 9 of Ernest Journal, on sale now.

Issue 9
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Whistling languages

There are around 70 whistled languages worldwide, all based on spoken tongues and created to communicate across remote terrain. Each one is formed through changes in pitch, either following a tonal structure (where whistles, or syllables, follow the melody of the parent language), or non-tonal (where whistles mimic changes in vowel resonance, while the jump and slide of notes indicate the consonants)

The steep volcanic peaks of La Gomera. Image by Mathias Weil, courtesy of Free Images

The steep volcanic peaks of La Gomera. Image by Mathias Weil, courtesy of Free Images

Silbo Gomero - the most whistled language in the world

The shrill whistles of the Silbadors echo among the steep volcanic peaks of La Gomera, second smallest of the Canary Islands. The 4,000-word language of Silbo Gomero replaces the principal phonetics of Castilian Spanish with two distinct sounds for the five vowels and four for the consonants. It’s understood by over 20,000 people and can be heard up to two miles away – substantially further than a ruddy good yell. As a wise Silbador once said, “whistling is always easier than walking”.

Kus Dili - the ‘bird language’

In an isolated valley on northern Turkey’s mountainous Black Sea coast, locals shoot the breeze with the chirruping sounds of Kus dili. Used by around 10,000 people in Kusköy (‘the village of birds’), this centuries old language takes standard Turkish syllables and transforms them into piercing whistles that you can hear from over half a mile away. It’s in decline, but since 2014 local authorities have been trying to reverse this by teaching it at primary school level.

The h’mong - whistle of courtship

Deep in the Himalayas exists a whistling language with a twist. Used by the H’mong people to penetrate dense forests, their whistles also feature in the delicate act of courtship. Historically, young boys would saunter through the moonlit streets of neighbouring villages, whistling poems to catch the ears of young girls. Although rare today, this ancient language permits a complex and private code of love that’s far more chivalrous than the unwelcome ‘wit-woo’ of a wolf whistle.

Words: Matt Iredale

This article originally featured in issue 9 of Ernest Journal, on sale now

Issue 9
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The Language of Wild Beauty

Prior to the Picturesque movement, people sought out symmetry, elegant architecture and the trimmed neatness of a formal garden. When they reached the Lake District, it was a culture shock; they couldn’t articulate the sublime majesty of the landscape. A new language was needed to interpret this wild aesthetic. An extract from Ernest Editions for Another Place, The Lake. Words: Joly Braime. Photos: Ryan Lomas.

Viewing station over Ullswater (Photo: Ryam Lomas)

Viewing station over Ullswater (Photo: Ryam Lomas)

When Daniel Defoe visited the Lake District in the 1720s, he noted gloomily that “all the pleasant part of England was at an end”. He described the “horror” of the place with great relish, calling it “a country eminent only for being the wildest, most barren and frightful of any that I have passed over in England, or even in Wales.”

Despite being even more awful than Wales, however, the Lake District was about to see an explosion in popularity. Today, nearly 20 million people a year visit the Lakes – in 2017 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site – and it all started with the pioneer tourists of the Picturesque movement.

In Defoe’s day, people liked symmetry and neatness, elegant architecture and formal gardens. Picturesque beauty, on the other hand, was all about the wild and violent lines of nature. An important aspect of a ‘picturesque’ landscape was that it needed an element of the ‘sublime’, which is to say that it had to have a hint of fear and awe about it, elevating it beyond something that was simply pretty.

Artists had been exploring the concept of the picturesque as far back as the 1600s, but it was an English vicar called William Gilpin who famously defined it in 1768 as “a term expressive of that peculiar kind of beauty, which is agreeable in a picture”.

Gilpin wrote a series of books about the picturesque, including the pithily titled Observations, relative chiefly to picturesque beauty, made in the year 1772, on several parts of England; particularly the mountains, and lakes of Cumberland, and Westmoreland. Part travel guide, part artist’s manual, it offered a fresh way to understand the rugged Lakeland landscapes, complete with its own specialised vocabulary.

Martindale (Photo: Ryam Lomas)

Martindale (Photo: Ryam Lomas)

A new language

Because his readers were learning to connect with natural landscapes by appraising them like paintings (and often by actually sketching them), Gilpin’s guides were couched in the technical language of art. He writes of composition, middle tints, near-distance and offscapes, and his books are peppered with italicised terms, always meticulously defined. “In a distance, the ruling character is tenderness, which on a fore-ground gives way to what the painter calls force and richness. Force arises from a violent opposition of colour, light, and shade: richness consists in a variety of parts, and glowing tints.”

Gilpin was almost comically finicky about correct composition in a landscape. Insufficiently dilapidated ruins were “disgusting”; a jarring line or colour was a “deformity”; a mountain that was shaped too much like something man-made was deemed “grotesque”. The effect of Gilpin’s waspish language is considerably heightened by the fact that the letters ‘s’ and ‘f’ look very alike in books printed in the 1700s, lending the text a Pythonesque shrillness that rather suits it. It’s difficult to read his condemnation of (ill-proportioned) Scandinavian mountains as “maffef of hideouf rudeneff” without cracking a smile.

Gilpin was clear that such deficiencies in nature were “not a subject for the pencil; [and] should be relinquished”. Or in other words, edited out. Trees should be planted or removed at the artist’s discretion, ill-formed hillocks should be broken open, and intrusive cottages “thrown down”. Those with enough money sometimes even bought the landscapes themselves so they could make such alterations in real life.

As a concept, the picturesque is gloriously paradoxical. You aim to allow nature its full, unfettered glory by tampering with it to make it fit a set of aesthetic rules. All the same, people were mad for it.

As high society packed their paint boxes and directed their carriages northwards, they needed a more useful travel guide than Gilpin’s Observations, which were decidedly light on practical information.

Enter another priest, Thomas West, who in 1776 published A Guide to the Lakes. West was a dab hand at packaging up the picturesque for the mass market. Not only did his guide contain helpful travel advice, but he also devised a network of ‘viewing stations’, where visiting aesthetes could enjoy curated vistas.

These viewing stations weren’t necessarily high points. Ullswater, for example, he felt should be viewed from closer to the shore, since it “loses much of its dignity as a lake” if seen from any hill except Dunmallard at the northern end. Head up to one of his viewing stations just above Aira Force and you can sort of see what he means. Because Ullswater is long and sinuous, you get a better sense of its scale from a little lower down. Lakefront viewing stations had the added bonus of rich acoustics caused by the shape of the valley, and West noted that tourists could “find much amusement by discharging guns, or small cannon”.

True connoisseurs of the picturesque would turn their backs to West’s views and instead examine them in a ‘Claude glass’, which was a convex mirror about four inches across, named after the Baroque landscape painter Claude Lorraine (1600-1682). “Where the objects are great and near,” wrote West, “it removes them to a due distance, and shews them in the soft colours of nature, and in the most regular perspective the eye can perceive, or science demonstrate.” Ideally a visitor would carry two Claude glasses – a smoked mirror for bright days and a silver foil one for dull weather – rather like analogue Instagram filters.

It’s difficult to imagine the 18th-century tourists standing there with their backs to the landscape, gazing at the views in filtered mirrors, without thinking of their modern-day counterparts stood in exactly the same position taking snaps for Instagram. And in Gilpin editing out “grotesque” cottages and other such aberrations, there is more than a hint of Photoshop.

Just like overly-keen Instagrammers, enthusiasts of the picturesque were ripe for mockery. Even Jane Austen had a pop at them in Northanger Abbey, where one character so over-analyses the technical aspects of a view that he strips all the joy out of it – an experience that will be familiar to anyone who has tried to enjoy a nice holiday in the company of an Insta-fiend.

But maybe we shouldn’t be too snooty about either ourselves or those early tourists. Understanding and appreciating the majesty of natural landscapes, after all, is hard, and our compulsion to frame and record them is perhaps just an attempt to reduce them to more relatable proportions. Two hundred years ago, they reached for a Claude glass; today we get our phones out.

From tiny acorns

The problem with a prescriptive system like picturesque beauty was that it left little room for an instinctive response to landscape. But as a starting point, the concept provided a stepping-stone to a richer, more spontaneous relationship with nature. It wasn’t long before Wordsworth and his set broke free of the viewing stations, wandering lonely as clouds through the Lakeland fells and discovering what West himself termed “accidental beauties”.

The Lake District has been called the birthplace of landscape conservation, one of the many reasons why the region was recently added to the World Heritage List. For all their fussy artistic language and absurd mirrors, it was Gilpin, West and the early picturesque tourists who first found a way to relate to those ‘sublime’ landscapes. In doing so, they may well have sown the tiniest seeds of a global conservation movement that now spans more than 3,000 national parks and over 70 National Trusts worldwide.

Photo: Ryan Lomas

Photo: Ryan Lomas

Read more about the North Lakes in Ernest Editions – a special edition made exclusively for Another Place, The Lake. Pick up a copy in your room.

Introducing Ernest Editions

We’re thrilled to announce the launch of Ernest Editions – a special edition of the journal made exclusively for our publishing partner, Another Place, The Lake.

Photo: Ryan Lomas

Photo: Ryan Lomas

We’re proud to be partnering with Another Place, The Lake. A relaxed hotel on the shores of Ullswater, this home-from-home is all about having fun, eating well and letting go – whether that’s sharing food with your kin, unwinding by the pool, curling up with a book in the library or paddling out straight from the hotel’s private jetty. It’s all about coming back in after being out in the elements – connecting with wild landscapes, then giving yourself permission to indulge in simple, hearty pleasures.

A stay at the hotel is also your chance to discover the North Lakes, a wild corner of Cumbria that’s been shaped as much by human hands as by the glaciers that carved its lofty peaks, rocky corries and hidden valleys. We can’t think of a place that better encapsulates our love of slow adventure and we’re proud to be partnering with a like-minded brand that shares our values. So please read on to find out more about Another Place, The Lake – or book your stay so you can pick up a copy of Ernest Editions in your room.

Photo: Colin Nicholls

Swim Club

The thrill and chill of open water swimming is one of the special joys of Another Place, The Lake, but warm water swimming has its perks too – especially at Swim Club, where the end of the heated pool in its airy glasshouse seems to fall straight into the breathtaking mountain view.

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Kith & kin

You may have heard those words that perfectly sum up the snugly feeling of holing up indoors after being out in the elements. In Scandinavia, it’s ‘hygge’. In Wales, it’s captured in the word ‘cwtch’. In Scotland, it’s ‘coorie’. We’re not sure if there’s a special term for the feeling Another Place, The Lake gives you, but safe to say it’s there in abundance. It’s woven into the comfy sofas and homely sheepskins, the roaring fires, book-laden shelves and strategically placed jars of Tunnock’s tea cakes. Every little detail is here to remind you that it’s perfectly fine to curl up with a glass of wine. Rest assured there are wellies in your size by the front door and wetsuits hung up in the Sheep Shed, both ready for you to borrow once you’re inclined to re-emerge.

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Open water adventures

While there’s always time to ‘stand and stare’ at Another Place, The Lake, there’s also plenty of time for taking to the water, whether you’re kayaking to secluded bays, paddle boarding to remote islands or leaping off boulders into the mirror-still water. Ask at reception about guided trips or call into the sheep shed for a wetsuit.

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Time to reconnect

When the nights draw in, but you’re still feeling the pull of the great outdoors, what better way to answer that call than to gather your kinfolk and light a campfire on Another Place, The Lake’s private shore? Guests are welcome to use the hotel’s fire pits; you just need to bring your own firewood (and marshmallows). Sound like too much trouble? Then simply fill your flask with hot chocolate (you’ll find a thermos and sachets in your room) and while away an evening skimming stones, watching the comings and goings of paddle boarders by the jetty. For those who prefer their lakeside chill-time a little more horizontal, there are hammocks in the garden and on the beach. Borrow a book from the library and recline!

Photos: Colin Nicholls. Words: Abi Whyte, Joly Braime.