Shooting for Ernest in South Greenland

For issue 4 of Ernest Journal, we sent photographer Daniel Alford to South Greenland to shoot giant icebergs, hot springs, Norse ruins, turquoise fjords and snow-capped mountains. He didn't disappoint. We chat to Daniel about the adventure, his influences and why geology was the catalyst for his career as a travel photographer...

Daniel tries out his new underwater camera cover for the first time. Photo: Abi Whyte

Daniel tries out his new underwater camera cover for the first time. Photo: Abi Whyte

How did you first get into photography?

I started taking photographs on geology field trips during my A-levels and first year of university. We were pretty lucky with our field work locations, to be honest. I traveled to Iceland and stood between two tectonic plates and watched the northern lights. In Sicily and Stromboli, we conduced our coursework on two of the of most active volcanos in Europe, and we searched for signs of the last Ice Age in Mallorca. 

After switching my degree to music, I started photographing and filming natural history as a hobby and it eventually became all I wanted to do. I definitely owe my love for travel and photography, which drives me so passionately today, to studying earth science and getting the opportunity to travel to amazing places. 

What are your interests as a photographer?

With my landscape work I've always tried to spread awareness. I want to encourage people to get outdoors, have adventures, chase that sunset and ultimately to appreciate nature. I get a lot of enjoyment and perspective from spending time outdoors. 

The more time I spent photographing and developing a style I'm happy with, I naturally started asking for more from my work. At the moment, what interests me is our connection with the natural world. I used to dislike any human element in my photographs. I wanted to capture wilderness and untouched landscapes. I realised recently that I had this all wrong. The most important part of the natural world at the moment, I believe, is how we interact with it, especially at this point in time. Photographing pristine wilderness almost seems like false advertising to me.

There seems to be an inherent connection between people and the outdoors. It's this connection that I find fascinating and I want to document with my photography, whether it be my own connection or someone else’s.

What have been your main influences?

Aside from my previous education in earth sciences, my degree in Creative Sound and Music has had a lasting effect on my photography. The degree taught me how to be creative in a professional context. It taught me to really think about the work I was producing, why I was producing it, and ultimately what the message was. It was then I realised that the process and message aspect of what you're doing creatively is transferable to any art form, whether it be music, design, photography or film. 

The main influences for me in terms of the visual and narrative side of things started with The Lord of the Rings trilogy. I remember watching the first film when I was quite young, and it having a profound impact on me. The other-worldly style, the landscapes, colour grading and cinematography were just immense. Other than that, BBC natural history documentaries like Planet Earth really blow me away. I watch David Attenborough’s programmes almost obsessively. 

Tell me about your experience shooting in South Greenland for ErnestAny highlights or lowlights? 

I had an amazing time working in Greenland. For me, the landscape looked like what I imagine Scotland looked like at the end of the last Ice Age. It seemed both harsh and fragile. Everybody I met there was incredibly friendly and hospitable.

I don't really have any lowlights from the trip! Apart from a particularly rainy day visiting Viking ruins. It rained so much that the buttons on my camera started changing function all by themselves. That was a scary moment. Our flight got delayed on the way home, too, but I was happy enough to spend another night in the country. 

I did have a few strange experiences. Our guide Inga was regaling us with Viking sagas, near the remains of an old church in the fjord where Eric the Red's cousin settled. It was a particularly misty and rainy day and we were the only people there. After she finished her stories, Inga turned to me and said, "You feel like you have been here before, don't you?" I couldn't help but admit that that was exactly how I was feeling. 

I was asked by a few people I met if I had found enough silence since I arrived in the country. I knew what they meant by that. 

There was plenty of hilarity working with features editor Abi – never a dull moment. 

Daniel does a recce of Hvalsey Church. Photo: Abi Whyte

Daniel does a recce of Hvalsey Church. Photo: Abi Whyte

What's your standout memory of your time in South Greenland?

The flight into Greenland from the east was just incredible. You fly over the southern tip of the country seeing the Ice Sheet stretching back far to the horizon. You see glaciers snaking through the fjords, feeding thousands of icebergs in to the sea. 

I will never forget seeing Igaliku for the first time, from a high vantage point. To my surprise it was a beautifully warm day, and the afternoon light was casting long shadows across the fjord. Later that night we were very fortunate – we were treated to an amazing show from the Aurora borealis, despite the full moon. It was really special as I managed to get a few shots, too! 

A lot of people we met told us their stories of spotting whales in the fjords. I was on the look out the whole time. We spent our days traveling around on boats (such is the Greenlandic way) so we were in with a good chance. Near the end of our trip we were lucky enough to briefly see the diving tail of a humpback whale. I'd always wanted to see a whale so I was absolutely thrilled. 

Greenland is the kind of country that when you get back home from visiting, you're going to have to write a new bucket list. 

What did you learn from your trip?

I learned a lot from the Greenlandic people. It was great hearing their perspective on life, the modern world, and also their political situation. Sometimes I felt like I was talking to people from an ancient time – it was humbling. They still have a huge connection with the natural world – it's at the forefront of their culture and their lives, something I think the western world is losing, and could benefit from. 

Oh, and if you travel to Greenland, remember to forget your watch and your time schedule. Things work a little differently there.  

Daniel masters the art of shooting icebergs with cold, numb fingers. Photo: Abi Whyte

Daniel masters the art of shooting icebergs with cold, numb fingers. Photo: Abi Whyte

Who are your favourite photographers?

The people that come to mind at the moment are David Yarrow, Finn Beales, Chris Burkard and Kevin Russ.

Dream photographic destination?

Antarctica seems like a magical place: a harsh and dynamic yet beautiful environment. It would have to be top of the list for me. 

What's on your bedside table?

A house plant, a small framed map of Middle Earth, a few books, and a lamp. 

You can see more of Daniel's photos of South Greenland in print issue 4 of Ernest Journal, on sale now.

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Daniel Alford is a Welsh landscape and travel photographer. He's a lover of geology, history, hiking and cycling. He travels to wild places as often as humanly possible. For the Greenland shoot, Daniel used a Canon 6D, 24-70mm 2.8, 70-200mm f4 and Manfrotto BeFree TripodFree Tripod

danielalford.co.uk

Christmas Gift Guide: Botanical

Geometric planters, brass misters and minuscule succulents – we've curated the perfect gifts for indoor gardener chums

1. Euclid Triangle Glass Wall Mount, Moonko, £75
Simple yet striking display case for your potted plants and cacti.

2. Leila concrete planter, Concrete Jungles, £20
Geometric concrete planter with a drainage hole - handmade in Norfolk.

3. Mini cacti, In With The Old, £2.95
Teeny weeny cactus that comes in its own little terracotta pot. 

4. Copper and Glass Divider Box, Moonko, £22.95
Plant a trio of cacti in this elegant divider box made from 100% recycled glass.

5. Ionantha Mexico Air Plant, Moonko, £7.20
Perfect for a beginner house gardener or experienced plant keeper. Produces a small purple flower.

6. Brass plant mister, What You Sow, £14.95
Pretty 300ml plant mister, perfect for raising humidity around terrariums, orchids and ferns. 

7. Essence + Alchemy ‘Hibernate’ Botanical Candle, Kindred & Kind, £12
Lemongrass, chamomile, lavender and rosewood candle in amber glass with a wooden wick. 

8. Single Terrarium, Eastern Biological, £12
Glass container idea for one succulent or air plant, or rocks with live moss on top. 

We've curated these gifts from our Directory members: a delectable troupe of independent brands and makers producing thoughtful and well-made things for your everyday adventures. 

Ghost stations on the Piccadilly Line

They once bustled with the to and fro of passengers and provided shelter during our darkest hours in the Second World War, but now they lie empty and dormant beneath our heaving capital. Duncan JD Smith shines a light into abandoned tube stations on the Piccadilly Line

Aldwych Station/Photo © Stewart Macfarlane

Aldwych Station/Photo © Stewart Macfarlane

The London Transport Museum on Covent Garden Piazza (WC2) illustrates well the complexity of the capital’s transport infrastructure. While the horse-drawn trams and motorised buses are interesting, it’s the material relating to the London Underground that really fascinates. Pride of place goes to a wooden railway carriage used on the Metropolitan line between Paddington and Farringdon, the world’s first underground passenger railway, which opened in 1863. Since then the Tube has expanded dramatically and helped transform London from a congested Victorian city into the massive conurbation it is today.

An intriguing facet of the Tube is its ghost stations of which there are more than 40. While some closed due to lack of customers others were abandoned when rival companies merged or else were reworked to increase capacity. A handful of them are located conveniently on the Piccadilly line, which opened in 1906, and it makes for quite an adventure finding them.

First stop is Brompton Road (SW3), which closed in 1934 because of its proximity to the busier stations at South Kensington and Knightsbridge. As early as 1909 some services were already passing through without stopping. During the Second World War the station served as the Royal Artillery’s anti-aircraft control centre for London. Although the platforms are no longer visible from passing trains, part of the façade still survives on Cottage Place, with its distinctive arches and maroon tiling designed by architect Leslie Green (1875–1908).

Next stop is the former ticket hall at Hyde Park Corner (SW7), which closed in 1932 when it was replaced by a new sub-surface ticket hall with the same name and its escalators replaced by lifts. At street level the redundant Leslie Green façade is now part of a hotel.

Like Brompton Road, Down Street (W1) was another station that proved unpopular, this time because of its proximity to Hyde Park Corner and Dover Street (today Green Park). It too closed in 1932 and again a Leslie Green façade survives above ground. Below ground a change in tunnel surface from cast iron segments to brickwork on the right-hand side denotes where the platforms have been walled off. Behind them was an air raid shelter used in 1940 by Winston Churchill before his Cabinet War Rooms were ready.

The next station, Dover Street, was rendered obsolete when escalators and a new sub-surface ticket hall were installed in 1933, at which time the station was renamed Green Park.

The most atmospheric ghost station on the Piccadilly line is undoubtedly Aldwych (WC2) at the corner of the Strand and Surrey Street. Originally intended to be the southern terminus for one of the companies that merged to form the Piccadilly line, Aldwych instead became the terminus of a short branch line to serve occupants of the newly-built Aldwych crescent. Opening as Strand station in 1907 (the station façade still bears this name) it provided a shuttle service up to Holborn but by 1918 had been renamed and its service curtailed since it was invariably quicker to walk up to Holborn than wait for the train. During the Second World War it provided shelter for 1500 people together with the British Museum’s Elgin Marbles. The station closed completely in 1994 after the cost of replacing its antiquated lifts was deemed uneconomic. Since then the mothballed station, with its old-fashioned ticket office, wood-panelled lifts, original tiling and peeling posters, has proved a popular film location.

Aldwych Station/Photo © Stewart Macfarlane

Aldwych Station/Photo © Stewart Macfarlane

Aldwych, Stewart Macfarlane_4.jpg

London once had three other underground railways. Of the London Pneumatic Despatch Railway, which carried light freight out of Euston Station between 1863 and 1874, only a solitary vehicle survives in the collection of the Museum of London at 150 London Wall (EC2). Of London’s tram network, which criss-crossed the city until the early 1950s, the abandoned Kingsway tunnel of 1906 remains, with entrances at the bottom end of Southampton Row (WC2) and beneath Waterloo Bridge. Nothing is currently visible of the driverless narrow gauge Mail Rail that from 1927 to 2003 transported millions of letters daily for the Post Office between Paddington and Whitechapel. Plans are afoot, however, to open parts of the mothballed system to visitors.

Guided tours of Aldwych Station (at the corner of the Strand and Surrey Street, WC2R 1LS) are provided occasionally by the London Transport Museum, although plans to sell off London’s ghost stations might one day make it more accessible. Getting there: Circle, District lines to Temple

Duncan J. D. Smith profile photo.jpg

This article is adapted from Duncan JD Smith’s new book Only in London: A Guide to Unique Locations, Hidden Corners and Unusual Objects, published by The Urban Explorer. Existing titles in the “Only In” series cover Berlin, Budapest, Cologne, Hamburg, Munich, Paris, Prague, Vienna and Zurich. Find out more at onlyinguides.com and duncanjdsmith.com.

Issue four is available to pre-order now!

We're almost there folks! Issue four of Ernest Journal explores the rather eclectic themes of sound, subversion and polar exploration. Read on for more about what's in store – then please pre-order your copy so we can post it out to you fresh from the printers, while it's still warm and inky...

24-page guide to Greenland

Seek out ancient Norse settlements; sail among icebergs while exploring the cultural impact of the great Ice Sheet and delve into Inuit folklore in South Greenland.

Curious histories

Listen to mysterious transmissions on short wave radio; delve into the darker side of tintype photography; investigate an anomaly in the North Sea – a micro-nation owned by a tenacious band of radio buccaneers; and read about Russian composer Alexander Scriabin, whose week-long symphony would bring about the end of the world.

Spaces

Step into the unconventional home of wallpaper designer Adam Calkin and enter the bizarre and wonderful world of sound design.

Slow adventure

Investigate the psychology of polar exploration; discover the secrets of Schiehallion, the Scottish mountain that helped us weigh the world; and explore the evolution of travel writing from the 'unsentimental journey', through Victorian authors and the Beats to situationism and psychogeography.

 

 

Workmanship

Forage for the raw ingredients needed to blow your own glass; meet an automaton inventor and discover the obsessions and frustrations of model boat makers.

Timeless style

Wear woollens inspired by the Heroic Age of Polar Exploration; discover the origins of the trench coat, from the front line to the silver screen; and forage for ingredients to create your own wild dyes.

Wild food

Venture into the marshes of northern Norway in search of elusive cloudberries and master the art of wild meat butchery.

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All subscriptions and pre-orders will be delivered at the end of November

Issue 4
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Pickled toads and dodo bones

London’s Natural History Museum is considered one of the world’s greatest repositories of objects pertaining to the natural world – but it’s not the capital’s only such collection. Although tiny by comparison, the Grant Museum of Zoology and Comparative Anatomy at University College London offers its own unique take on natural curiosities

© UCL Grant Museum of Zoology/Matt Clayton

© UCL Grant Museum of Zoology/Matt Clayton

The Grant Museum was established in 1828 by Scotsman Robert Edmond Grant (1793–1874), one of the foremost biologists of his time. A year earlier he had been made the first Professor of Comparative Anatomy at the newly-founded London University – now University College London (UCL) – where he quickly identified the need for a teaching collection of zoological specimens. This formed the basis for what would become the museum and on his death Grant bequeathed his own personal collection of specimens to it. Since then, further donations have been made by other universities, hospitals and even London Zoo.

In 2011, the museum was moved from the Darwin Building on the UCL campus (Grant influenced the young Charles Darwin, who once occupied a house on the site) to new premises in the Rockefeller Building at 21 University Street in Bloomsbury (WC1E 6DE). The entrance to the museum today is suitably adorned with the skeletons of a walrus, a baboon and a giant iguanodon beyond which can be found over 60,000 zoological specimens, many preserved in glass vials and jars. As such the museum is probably not for the squeamish.

To the untrained eye, the exhibits might at first appear disorganised but on closer inspection you will notice they are carefully categorised into evolutionary groups. The entire animal kingdom is represented here from jars of humble earthworms and pickled toads to monkey skeletons and huge elephant skulls. The curled up skeleton of a 250-kilo anaconda is particularly memorable!

© UCL Grant Museum of Zoology/Matt Clayton

© UCL Grant Museum of Zoology/Matt Clayton

Among the exhibits are some real oddities. Take for example the enormous skull of a Giant Deer (Megaloceros giganteus), which was discovered unexpectedly in an Irish hotel. Once a denizen of Europe and Asia, the Giant Deer’s last refuge 10,000 years ago was Ireland, giving rise to the misleading name of Irish Elk. Then there is a skeleton of the extinct Quagga, a partially-striped sub-species of Plains Zebra hunted to extinction during the 1870s. It had long been in the museum but was only identified in 1981. The box of Dodo bones, an extinct flightless bird so famous it has entered modern English parlance (hence “dead as a Dodo”), was stored away for a century before being rediscovered in 2011. And don’t overlook the fossilised remains of Rhamphorhynchus. This Jurassic-era pterosaur was assumed to be a plaster cast until it turned out to be the real thing. Definitely a cast but no less interesting for that is an example of Archaeopteryx, believed by some to represent the missing link between saurian reptiles and birds.

Sometimes perceived as an essentially Victorian collection, the Grant Museum of Zoology is frequented today not only by university students but also schoolchildren, artists and other curious visitors. Accordingly the museum’s innovative temporary displays are designed to be of interest to a non-professional audience. As a nod to modernity visitors are encouraged to share their opinions of the museum on iPads positioned alongside the exhibits.

Grant Museum of Zoology and Comparative Anatomy (WC1E 6DE), University College London, Rockefeller Building, 21 University Street, Mon–Sat 1–5pm

Getting there: Circle, Hammersmith & City, Metropolitan lines to Euston Square; Northern line to Goodge Street; Northern, Victoria lines to Warren Street

This feature is adapted from Duncan JD Smith’s new book Only in London: A Guide to Unique Locations, Hidden Corners and Unusual Objects, published by The Urban Explorer. Existing titles in the Only In series cover Berlin, Budapest, Cologne, Hamburg, Munich, Paris, Prague, Vienna and Zurich. Find out more at onlyinguides.com and duncanjdsmith.com