Shooting for Ernest in South Greenland

For issue 4 of Ernest Journal, we sent photographer Daniel Alford to South Greenland to shoot giant icebergs, hot springs, Norse ruins, turquoise fjords and snow-capped mountains. He didn't disappoint. We chat to Daniel about the adventure, his influences and why geology was the catalyst for his career as a travel photographer...

Daniel tries out his new underwater camera cover for the first time. Photo: Abi Whyte

Daniel tries out his new underwater camera cover for the first time. Photo: Abi Whyte

How did you first get into photography?

I started taking photographs on geology field trips during my A-levels and first year of university. We were pretty lucky with our field work locations, to be honest. I traveled to Iceland and stood between two tectonic plates and watched the northern lights. In Sicily and Stromboli, we conduced our coursework on two of the of most active volcanos in Europe, and we searched for signs of the last Ice Age in Mallorca. 

After switching my degree to music, I started photographing and filming natural history as a hobby and it eventually became all I wanted to do. I definitely owe my love for travel and photography, which drives me so passionately today, to studying earth science and getting the opportunity to travel to amazing places. 

What are your interests as a photographer?

With my landscape work I've always tried to spread awareness. I want to encourage people to get outdoors, have adventures, chase that sunset and ultimately to appreciate nature. I get a lot of enjoyment and perspective from spending time outdoors. 

The more time I spent photographing and developing a style I'm happy with, I naturally started asking for more from my work. At the moment, what interests me is our connection with the natural world. I used to dislike any human element in my photographs. I wanted to capture wilderness and untouched landscapes. I realised recently that I had this all wrong. The most important part of the natural world at the moment, I believe, is how we interact with it, especially at this point in time. Photographing pristine wilderness almost seems like false advertising to me.

There seems to be an inherent connection between people and the outdoors. It's this connection that I find fascinating and I want to document with my photography, whether it be my own connection or someone else’s.

What have been your main influences?

Aside from my previous education in earth sciences, my degree in Creative Sound and Music has had a lasting effect on my photography. The degree taught me how to be creative in a professional context. It taught me to really think about the work I was producing, why I was producing it, and ultimately what the message was. It was then I realised that the process and message aspect of what you're doing creatively is transferable to any art form, whether it be music, design, photography or film. 

The main influences for me in terms of the visual and narrative side of things started with The Lord of the Rings trilogy. I remember watching the first film when I was quite young, and it having a profound impact on me. The other-worldly style, the landscapes, colour grading and cinematography were just immense. Other than that, BBC natural history documentaries like Planet Earth really blow me away. I watch David Attenborough’s programmes almost obsessively. 

Tell me about your experience shooting in South Greenland for ErnestAny highlights or lowlights? 

I had an amazing time working in Greenland. For me, the landscape looked like what I imagine Scotland looked like at the end of the last Ice Age. It seemed both harsh and fragile. Everybody I met there was incredibly friendly and hospitable.

I don't really have any lowlights from the trip! Apart from a particularly rainy day visiting Viking ruins. It rained so much that the buttons on my camera started changing function all by themselves. That was a scary moment. Our flight got delayed on the way home, too, but I was happy enough to spend another night in the country. 

I did have a few strange experiences. Our guide Inga was regaling us with Viking sagas, near the remains of an old church in the fjord where Eric the Red's cousin settled. It was a particularly misty and rainy day and we were the only people there. After she finished her stories, Inga turned to me and said, "You feel like you have been here before, don't you?" I couldn't help but admit that that was exactly how I was feeling. 

I was asked by a few people I met if I had found enough silence since I arrived in the country. I knew what they meant by that. 

There was plenty of hilarity working with features editor Abi – never a dull moment. 

Daniel does a recce of Hvalsey Church. Photo: Abi Whyte

Daniel does a recce of Hvalsey Church. Photo: Abi Whyte

What's your standout memory of your time in South Greenland?

The flight into Greenland from the east was just incredible. You fly over the southern tip of the country seeing the Ice Sheet stretching back far to the horizon. You see glaciers snaking through the fjords, feeding thousands of icebergs in to the sea. 

I will never forget seeing Igaliku for the first time, from a high vantage point. To my surprise it was a beautifully warm day, and the afternoon light was casting long shadows across the fjord. Later that night we were very fortunate – we were treated to an amazing show from the Aurora borealis, despite the full moon. It was really special as I managed to get a few shots, too! 

A lot of people we met told us their stories of spotting whales in the fjords. I was on the look out the whole time. We spent our days traveling around on boats (such is the Greenlandic way) so we were in with a good chance. Near the end of our trip we were lucky enough to briefly see the diving tail of a humpback whale. I'd always wanted to see a whale so I was absolutely thrilled. 

Greenland is the kind of country that when you get back home from visiting, you're going to have to write a new bucket list. 

What did you learn from your trip?

I learned a lot from the Greenlandic people. It was great hearing their perspective on life, the modern world, and also their political situation. Sometimes I felt like I was talking to people from an ancient time – it was humbling. They still have a huge connection with the natural world – it's at the forefront of their culture and their lives, something I think the western world is losing, and could benefit from. 

Oh, and if you travel to Greenland, remember to forget your watch and your time schedule. Things work a little differently there.  

Daniel masters the art of shooting icebergs with cold, numb fingers. Photo: Abi Whyte

Daniel masters the art of shooting icebergs with cold, numb fingers. Photo: Abi Whyte

Who are your favourite photographers?

The people that come to mind at the moment are David Yarrow, Finn Beales, Chris Burkard and Kevin Russ.

Dream photographic destination?

Antarctica seems like a magical place: a harsh and dynamic yet beautiful environment. It would have to be top of the list for me. 

What's on your bedside table?

A house plant, a small framed map of Middle Earth, a few books, and a lamp. 

You can see more of Daniel's photos of South Greenland in print issue 4 of Ernest Journal, on sale now.

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Daniel Alford is a Welsh landscape and travel photographer. He's a lover of geology, history, hiking and cycling. He travels to wild places as often as humanly possible. For the Greenland shoot, Daniel used a Canon 6D, 24-70mm 2.8, 70-200mm f4 and Manfrotto BeFree TripodFree Tripod

danielalford.co.uk

Mining for gold in the Arctic

Every August, Marielle Amelie Lind Hansen and her family venture onto the marshes of northern Norway, in search of an elusive golden berry 

Photo: Marielle Amelie Lind Hansen

Photo: Marielle Amelie Lind Hansen

Andøy, Norway. It’s the first week of August and the behaviour of the locals has changed dramatically. It is cloudberry season, and the hunt is on for this small, elusive berry known as the gold of northern Scandinavia. The season lasts for just one week before they all disappear.

Almost impossible to cultivate, cloudberries can be found growing wild in wet, acidic soil in Arctic and subarctic regions. These hardy berries, which are related to raspberriesm have 10 times more vitamin C than blueberries. They are also packed with vitamins A and E, iron and Omega 3 and 6.

This extremely short harvest, called ‘the cloudberry year’, is such an important event in the local calendar that people bunk off work, mark large areas of bogland with signs telling you where can and can’t forage and spin yarns to trick others into thinking there are no berries left. I’ve heard stories of old ladies staying up into the wee hours to sneak into the fields for their share of the glut, while landowners patrol their bounty with binoculars from the roadside. It’s also a time for celebration – a festival of socialising, gossiping and telling tall tales about the number of berries you’ve found.

In an average harvest, you might end up with around 7kg. My grandmother used to harvest nearly 30kg and would create a vast array of recipes from her yield, from cloudberry liquor to cloudberry cake. Whenever I think of her, I see her surrounded by orange fruit...

Anatomy of a cloudberry

Habitat
Grows in moist, acidic soil in bogs and marshes across north Scandinavia, north America, north Russia and, very rarely, in the moorlands of Britain. 

Leaves
Green, round-lobed, tooth-edged leaves on straight, branchless stalks. 

Fruit
The drupelets of fruit start pale red then turn a yellow-amber in early autumn.The sweet, tart flavour is perfect in jams, tarts and liquers. 

Medicinal uses
Historically used to cure fever and dysentery. In the 17th century, seamen ate cloudberry jam on voyages to prevent scurvy. 
 

This is an extract from Mariell Amélie Lind Hansen's article in print issue 4 of Ernest Journal, on sale now. To read more about her annual family foraging trips in the marshes of Andøy, Norway, order issue 4 below.

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Christmas Gift Guide: Slow Adventure

A Swedish steel blade, a botanist's bag and a traditional rub to soothe your muscles after a day out in the wild – take your pick of these curated gifts for adventuring nomads.

1. Swedish Wilderness Knife, Pedal + Tread, £51.95
Hardened Swedish stainless steel blade and birch handle. Perfectly sized wilderness knife.

2. Leather Knife Sheath, The Future Kept, £39
Made in Britain from vegetable tanned leather and hand stitched with Irish linen thread.

3. Mark the Field Bag, Millican, £99
Inspired by the life of the botanist – designed for outdoor journeys. Grey organic cotton canvas with burnt orange interior.

4. Swedish Hunters Liniment, Fforest, £23.95
A soothing muscle rub. Comes in a birch bark pot with a birch and reindeer leather lid.

5. Mountain Guide Candle, Pedlars, £19.50
Notes of white oak, myrtle berry and sweet birch. Reminds you of your adventures in the mountains. 

6. Pedlars Guide to The Great Outdoors, Pedlars, £16.99
A guide for all the family, based on the Gladstones’ experience of 20 years living in the Highlands of Scotland.

7. Explorers Pack, Not Another Bill, £26
Curated adventure hamper featuring a Stanley flask, Field Notes ‘indestructible’ notebook and pencil and membership to NAB’s explorers club.

8. Bedouin Delireis Rolltop Backpack, Kinoko, £290
Robust and comfortable rolltop pack made from waterproof waxed canvas. Handmade in England. 

Issue four is available to pre-order now!

We're almost there folks! Issue four of Ernest Journal explores the rather eclectic themes of sound, subversion and polar exploration. Read on for more about what's in store – then please pre-order your copy so we can post it out to you fresh from the printers, while it's still warm and inky...

24-page guide to Greenland

Seek out ancient Norse settlements; sail among icebergs while exploring the cultural impact of the great Ice Sheet and delve into Inuit folklore in South Greenland.

Curious histories

Listen to mysterious transmissions on short wave radio; delve into the darker side of tintype photography; investigate an anomaly in the North Sea – a micro-nation owned by a tenacious band of radio buccaneers; and read about Russian composer Alexander Scriabin, whose week-long symphony would bring about the end of the world.

Spaces

Step into the unconventional home of wallpaper designer Adam Calkin and enter the bizarre and wonderful world of sound design.

Slow adventure

Investigate the psychology of polar exploration; discover the secrets of Schiehallion, the Scottish mountain that helped us weigh the world; and explore the evolution of travel writing from the 'unsentimental journey', through Victorian authors and the Beats to situationism and psychogeography.

 

 

Workmanship

Forage for the raw ingredients needed to blow your own glass; meet an automaton inventor and discover the obsessions and frustrations of model boat makers.

Timeless style

Wear woollens inspired by the Heroic Age of Polar Exploration; discover the origins of the trench coat, from the front line to the silver screen; and forage for ingredients to create your own wild dyes.

Wild food

Venture into the marshes of northern Norway in search of elusive cloudberries and master the art of wild meat butchery.

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All subscriptions and pre-orders will be delivered at the end of November

Issue 4
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The Durand comes to Europe

We caught up with innovative outdoor footwear makers KEEN to talk about their new Durand boot and why this pioneering company believes fervently in the future of local manufacturing

Tell us about the Durand boot…

The KEEN Durand WP is a lightweight, durable and comfortable boot that’s proving a hit with hikers. With super grip and shock absorption, they’re perfect for long hikes in the hills, a pacy trek on mixed terrain or more leisurely low level hikes. 

But can it cope with the British weather? We’ve just started naming storms you know…

Of course! Not only does the boot feature a mesh lined nubuck leather upper, we’ve also used our own KEEN.DRY waterproof membrane, so the Durand will ensure your feet stay comfortable and dry whatever the elements have in store. 

Let’s get technical – what is so special about how these boots are made?

The Durand is a resilient boot with unmatched shock absorption and incredible underfoot support. First off, an integrated heel cushion locks directly into the footbed to support the foot while maximising shock absorption, whilst a dual-compound outsole combines two distinct types of rubber – one around the edges to enhance edging and grip, and another in the centre to maximise durability in high-wear areas. 

One of the core technologies we’ve used is our own unique direct-injection technique, which attaches the nubuck leather and breathable mesh membrane directly to the midsole, using polyurethane. This mechanical bond requires less petroleum-based cements, has no volatile chemicals and also delivers long lasting durability and shock absorption.

Why did you decide to move the production process to Europe?

We understand that buying locally-made products and supporting the European economy is important to our customers, so as of autumn/winter 2015, we’re proud to be moving the production of the Durand Mid and Low WP to Europe along with two other new lines – the Liberty Ridge and Durand Polar. Plus, the new European factory will also double as a learning and test centre, where our R&D team can use modern technology to experiment and create high quality, innovative products.

The Durand Mid WP is £139.99 and the Durand Low WP is £124.99 and are available in men's and women's styles.

This is a sponsored blog post, created in collaboration with KEEN. Read more about KEEN and in the Ernest Journal directory.