Introducing Loake: 135 years of craftsmanship

We go behind the scenes at the Loake factory in Northamptonshire, where they have been making Goodyear welted shoes for well over a century 

The Goodyear welt is the oldest and most labour intensive method of shoemaking in the world

The Goodyear welt is the oldest and most labour intensive method of shoemaking in the world

The Loake family have been making shoes in Northamptonshire – the historic centre of British shoemaking – for five generations.

It all began in 1880, with three brothers working in a shoe factory in Kettering. They each worked in different departments and they soon realised that, between them, they had all the necessary skills to make shoes themselves. It was a brave step, leaving the security of their jobs to set up a business of their own. 

A meticulous craft

The Loake brothers became one of the finest producers of Goodyear welted footwear – the most labour intensive and durable method of shoe construction. Fast forward 135 years and Loake are still making shoes the same way – it’s believed they’ve produced more than 50 million pairs since they first began manufacturing. Some 130 skilled shoemakers, up to 75 shoes parts and 200 different operations are involved in making a pair today.

A Goodyear welt is essentially a strip of leather stitched along the perimeter of the shoe’s outsole, connecting it to the upper. The most well-known Goodyear welted style that Loake make is the brogue – a timeless classic no English gentleman’s wardrobe would be complete without.

Lifetime companions

One of the benefits of the Goodyear welt is that the shoes can easily be resoled, something Loake take huge pride in. Their repair service covers re-soling on the original last with new soles and heels, fitting new seat socks and re-finishing the upper part of the shoes. A pair of Loake shoes can really last a lifetime – looking as good as new after a repair service, but still as comfortable as ‘old friends’. 

Traditional meets contemporary

Despite their heritage and traditional craftsmanship, Loake believe they are very much a forward-thinking company, with their range of footwear including alternative constructions and classic and contemporary styles. Their aim is to maintain a balance between traditional and contemporary design, thereby introducing new generations of wearers to the benefits of fine, handmade shoes.

This blog post was created in collaboration with Loake. Read more about the historic brand in the Ernest directory.

Return of the Desert Rats

Ernest tends to get rather excited when Realm & Empire launch a new menswear range, particularly when the designs are inspired by the functionality and practicality of original utility uniforms worn by the Long Range Desert Group in the Second World War

When a British menswear brand gets to partner up with a historic institution, such as the Imperial War Museum, magical things can happen. Realm & Empire have done it again with their new SS16 collection, inspired by uniform worn by the British Army's Long Range Desert Group, who fought in the Second World War. Functionality, practicality and authenticity was key in Realm & Empire's design concept, aided by extensive research of genuine artefacts in IWM's archives:

IWM Desert Rat Badge INS 5114

IWM Desert Rat Badge INS 5114

Formation badge: 7th Armoured Division

The original badge is said to have been designed by the wife of Sir Michael O'Moore Creagh, who commanded the Division from December 1939. This pattern of a jerboa (desert rat) was in use throughout their service in Sicily and Italy, and it has inspired  Realm & Empire's graphics for tees and sweaters in their SS16 collection.

 

IWM Flag FLA5607

IWM Flag FLA5607

 

 

Military Flag: Long Range Desert Group

This handmade ensign was manufactured by members of the Long Range Desert Group for the MFV Kufra, a commandered fishing vessel used for raiding operations into Yugoslavia from Italy in the Second World War. The scorpion is the symbol of the Division, and has also inspired Realm & Empire's graphics for tees and sweaters in their SS16 collection.

 

 

IWM Map 1

IWM Map 1

 

Escape Map: Long Range Desert Group

This escape map was found sewn into the lining of a beret worn by a member of the LRDG. It has inspired the lining of tees and sweaters in Realm & Empire's SS16 collection.

 

 

 

 

IWM trousers, Battledress UNI 12843

IWM trousers, Battledress UNI 12843

Battledress trousers

These were standard army issue trousers of the Battledress uniform – khaki with an external pocket to the right upper leg and a large external map pocket to the left front thigh. These features inspired the large pockets on the SS16 combat trousers and map pocket detailing on the shorts and jacket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can see how Realm & Empire have translated this archive research into their SS16 menswear range...

Ernest readers receive 20% off the SS16 collection; just quote 'ERNESTSS16' at the checkout on Realm & Empire's website; realmandempire.com. Offer ends midnight 30 April 2016.

This blog post was created in collaboration with Realm & Empire. Read more about the brand in the Ernest directory.

Christmas Gift Guide: Slow Adventure

A Swedish steel blade, a botanist's bag and a traditional rub to soothe your muscles after a day out in the wild – take your pick of these curated gifts for adventuring nomads.

1. Swedish Wilderness Knife, Pedal + Tread, £51.95
Hardened Swedish stainless steel blade and birch handle. Perfectly sized wilderness knife.

2. Leather Knife Sheath, The Future Kept, £39
Made in Britain from vegetable tanned leather and hand stitched with Irish linen thread.

3. Mark the Field Bag, Millican, £99
Inspired by the life of the botanist – designed for outdoor journeys. Grey organic cotton canvas with burnt orange interior.

4. Swedish Hunters Liniment, Fforest, £23.95
A soothing muscle rub. Comes in a birch bark pot with a birch and reindeer leather lid.

5. Mountain Guide Candle, Pedlars, £19.50
Notes of white oak, myrtle berry and sweet birch. Reminds you of your adventures in the mountains. 

6. Pedlars Guide to The Great Outdoors, Pedlars, £16.99
A guide for all the family, based on the Gladstones’ experience of 20 years living in the Highlands of Scotland.

7. Explorers Pack, Not Another Bill, £26
Curated adventure hamper featuring a Stanley flask, Field Notes ‘indestructible’ notebook and pencil and membership to NAB’s explorers club.

8. Bedouin Delireis Rolltop Backpack, Kinoko, £290
Robust and comfortable rolltop pack made from waterproof waxed canvas. Handmade in England. 

Christmas Gift Guide: Botanical

Geometric planters, brass misters and minuscule succulents – we've curated the perfect gifts for indoor gardener chums

1. Euclid Triangle Glass Wall Mount, Moonko, £75
Simple yet striking display case for your potted plants and cacti.

2. Leila concrete planter, Concrete Jungles, £20
Geometric concrete planter with a drainage hole - handmade in Norfolk.

3. Mini cacti, In With The Old, £2.95
Teeny weeny cactus that comes in its own little terracotta pot. 

4. Copper and Glass Divider Box, Moonko, £22.95
Plant a trio of cacti in this elegant divider box made from 100% recycled glass.

5. Ionantha Mexico Air Plant, Moonko, £7.20
Perfect for a beginner house gardener or experienced plant keeper. Produces a small purple flower.

6. Brass plant mister, What You Sow, £14.95
Pretty 300ml plant mister, perfect for raising humidity around terrariums, orchids and ferns. 

7. Essence + Alchemy ‘Hibernate’ Botanical Candle, Kindred & Kind, £12
Lemongrass, chamomile, lavender and rosewood candle in amber glass with a wooden wick. 

8. Single Terrarium, Eastern Biological, £12
Glass container idea for one succulent or air plant, or rocks with live moss on top. 

We've curated these gifts from our Directory members: a delectable troupe of independent brands and makers producing thoughtful and well-made things for your everyday adventures. 

Realm & Empire + Imperial War Museum

Contemporary menswear label Realm & Empire launch their pop-up store in London's Seven Dials in a unique collaboration with the Imperial War Museum

So why team up with the Imperial War Museum for this pop-up store?

Every season we create our menswear collections based on original narratives, designs and details we find in IWM’s extensive archives of photos, prints and garments. IWM tells the story of people who have lived, fought and died in conflicts involving Britain and the Commonwealth since the First World War. Their unique collections, made up of the everyday and the exceptional, reveal stories of people, places, ideas and events, and challenge people to look at conflict from different perspectives, enriching their understanding of the causes, course and consequences of war and its impact on people’s lives. The authority of IWM supports everything we do, and ensures that all Realm & Empire apparel is fundamentally inspired by real history.

Tell us a bit more about the pop-up.

It’s a store right in the heart of Covent Garden’s shopping destination Seven Dials, renowned for its diverse menswear. The main focus in store will be on Realm & Empire’s new AW15 Flyers Collection, with influences pulled from RAF Bomber Command, the Battle of Britain and the British airborne divisions, as well as US aircrew finery and even aircraft nose art.  

What R/E products have you got lined up?

Highlights include a bespoke hand-painted A2 leather flying jacket, designs inspired by a vintage Second World War parachute bag and a fresh consignment of British-made knitwear.

Anything from the the IWM?

We've got unique IWM gifts inspired by stories from the archives, such as an enamel mug featuring blueprints of a Spitfire Mk VI, to Bulldog salt and pepper pots inspired by Sir Winston Churchill and Spitfire cufflinks crafted from ‘donor’ metal originating from an excavated Spitfire Mk 1 X4276.

The pop-up store runs until 31 December 2016; Monday to Saturday 10am-7pm; Sunday 12pm-6pm. 5 Earlham Street, London WC2H 9LL

This is a sponsored blog post, created in collaboration with Realm & Empire.